Winter climbing can be generally divided into several distinctive 'styles', although it should be borne in mind that at times the boundaries between the different styles can be arbitrary particularly on some long mountain routes where you could find yourself having to deal with them all.


Grading Systems


Winter climbs, in all countries, are graded using a system different from that used on rock. Just to confuse further, different countries use their own systems. And there is more. You will find that pure ice climbs have a different grading system than say a mixed climb. In the UK the system generally used is the Scottish system which is used for both ice and mixed climbs.


All this info can be gleaned form the guidebook to the area you are climbing in, so although it all may appear confusing at first, in practice it does all tend make sense, and if it doesn't, well you have something to talk about in the bar apres climb.


Snow and Ice:


This is where it all stemmed from, and arguably is perhaps the most undertaken style of winter climbing. Many of the techniques here are the key mountaineering, or alpine skills for moving around on snow and ice terrain, and as such are the key to progressing into the other styles.


This style encompasses moving on moderate to steep (30 - 60?degrees) snow and ice terrain. If you climb in any snow covered terrain, from the Scottish hills, to the Alps, through to steep waterfall ice having the technique and skill to move confidently and safely on this angle of terrain is a must.


Waterfall Ice:


In the past decade climbing steep water ice (70 - 90+?degrees) has become very popular. Developments in specialist ice tools and crampons have made moving on very steep ice easier and potentially more secure. Climbing steep water ice is very popular in areas such as Canada, USA, Continent, Norway and anywhere else that has very cold sustained winters where watercourses can freeze up. It is also undertaken in the mountains where climbs may be predominately ice, or have significant sections of ice on them.


Mixed:


This term refers to where the climbing involves snow, ice and rock. This requires the climber to be inventive in terms of techniques, such as using both ice tools, and at times hands to move upwards. It also involves using crampon points on rock, an unnerving experience the first time you try it.


Scottish Mixed:


In many respects winter climbing in Scotland does tend to involve dealing with a great deal of mediums from snow, ice, rock, frozen turf and moss. Although a great deal many climbs in Scotland are generally on snow and ice, an even greater number will tend to demand some level of mixed climbing skill.


This style of climbing in Scotland has been taken to even more refined dimensions where a whole new range of techniques such as hooking and torqueing have been invented to allow the climber to jam, cam and hook their tools on rock and move upwards. It is so diverse that many climbers tend to focus exclusively on this style as it so absorbing requiring a very wide repertoire of techniques.


In Scotland the ethic tends to dictate ascents when the climb is in a 'wintry' condition i.e. it looks white. One of the key issues in this style of climbing is uncovering the protection from under the snow and/or rime ice.


Dry Tooling:


This is sometimes confused with mixed climbing but there are subtle differences, and certainly in the UK some very pronounced ethical differences. Dry tooling is to winter climbing what sport climbing is to rock. Generally the protection is fixed, using in situ gear such as bolts or pegs.


The nature of the terrain is generally very steep to overhanging rock, which requires the climber to hook their picks on small rock edges, or torque, or hook. As such it is a very physical and dynamic activity. Sometimes the climb involves climbing sections of rock to reach a hanging ice fringe or icicle. Although many other dry tooling climbs may not even have any ice or snow on them.